Step-by-step plans per building element & insulation type.
Concrete step-by-step procedures for removing insulation, broken down by type of building element (roof, facade, floor) and by insulation form (board, roll, batt, loose fill).
By type of building element
The greatest recovery potential lies in roof build-ups: often easily accessible, few hidden pipes and cables, and large panels.
First remove the roof membrane (EPDM, bitumen) in strips — mark the panel joints beforehand
Locate mechanical fasteners using thermography or a metal detector
Unscrew or saw the fasteners free — avoid sawing through the panel
Lift the panel with a vacuum lifter or at least two people — do not tilt it
Stack directly on a pallet, protected by a tarpaulin against sudden rain
Mark the pallet with an origin code (building–roof section–row)
Facades are more complex because of vapour-permeable layers, window surrounds and continuous fixings. Work from the top down.
First remove the finishing layer (render, facing brick, panels)
Check whether a vapour barrier is present — avoid perforating it
Unscrew the screws row by row, panel by panel
Lift the panel out of the batten with a vacuum lifter — do not tilt it against the wind
For corner panels: if necessary, cut the corner strip loose to recover two panels together
Floors are trickier because of loading and possible moisture damage. Crawl space insulation in particular is interesting — often in good condition.
First remove the floor finish or screed in strips
Inspect the underside for traces of moisture, mould or insect damage
In crawl spaces: work from the inside, use knee protection and a dust filter
Vacuum up loose-fill insulation with a high-volume vacuum, after testing it for moisture
By type of insulation
Rigid boards (PUR, PIR, EPS, XPS, glass wool panel, rock wool panel) are the most suitable for removal in one piece.
Always work with at least two people or a vacuum lifting system
Avoid sawing through — undoing screw connections is always preferable
Mark each board with an origin tag (sticker with QR code or number)
Glass wool or rock wool rolls are harder to recover — they are often damaged and are sensitive to moisture.
First check whether the roll can still be rolled up without breaking
Wear gloves and a dust mask — fibres are released during removal
Do not stack more than 3 rolls high to avoid compression damage
Batts are often clamped between rafters. During removal, the material is easily damaged at the edges.
First remove the finishing boards without applying pressure
Lift the batt out from between the rafters in one piece — do not pull
For damaged edges: trim straight for reuse in a different grid
Cellulose and glass wool loose fill can often be blown into another building again — provided it is dry and not contaminated.
First test for moisture and mould by taking a sample
Vacuum up with an industrial suction system with cyclone pre-separation
Pack in large big bags, stored dry and well ventilated
For reinstallation: if necessary, mix with 20% fresh loose fill to restore bulk density
Also read the general recommendations.
In addition to the step-by-step plans above, some aspects always apply — preliminary investigation, safety, logistics.